2009: Leandro and Mar Reporting From the Chilean Patagonia

Phew, today was a long day! From 8 a.m. to 8 p.m., Dam Analyst Squad spent time with biologists, economists, lawyers, engineers and oceanographers learning about different aspects surrounding hydroelectric development in Patagonia. Although a test of our patience, the conference proved well worthwhile as it furthered our “well-rounding” by exposing us to professionals focused on Patagonian development beyond the scientific world. Instead of delving into a lengthy description of the conference, I will provide a breakdown of the lecturers and their topics.

• Environmental law criteria applicable to large scale energy projects from the Chilean, Montanan, and international law perspectives—David Aronofsky
• Hydropower economics: the North American experience—John Duffield
• Oceanography as a decision making tool for sustainability of productive activities—Silvio Pantoja
• Hydroelectric Projects: A challenge for the tourism sector and sustainable development of the Aysén Region—Fabien Burlon
• The end of the road: the sacrifice of the tourism potential of the Aysén Region to supply an increasing energy consumption—Christian Dufflocq
• Dams,fish and environmental impact assessment—Kyle Young
• Potential environmental impacts of hydroelectric project in the Rio Baker and Rio Pascua—Daniela Castro
• Three decades of regulated river research: conference of theory and practice—Jack Stanford
• Minimizing environmental impacts of hydropower development: transferring lessons from past projects to a proposed strategy for Chile—Peter Goodwin
• Environmental impacts of hydropower in Chile: past, present, and future—Claudio Meier

Today we begin the first of three days in Coyhaique, the capital of the Aysen region. During our stay here, we will participate in meetings and make a presentation at a scientific conference on hydroelectric development in Patagonia.

Today we participated in the meetings. Instead of launching into a description of them however, I will provide some background information. Throughout the fall semester each member of Dam Analyst Squad has been searching for data. For example Flavia is looking for specific discharge rates and Laura, for energy consumption numbers. We are searching for this information because we hope to make as few assumptions as possible when completing our projects. Although we have had numerous meetings throughout Aysen, we have found little data beyond that which we had before departing from the States. Although frustrating, the search continued today in our meetings with Centro de Investigación en Ecosystemas de la Patagonia (CIEP) and Conservación Patagonica. Although there was no pot of golden data at the end of this rainbow, we did have the pleasure of discussing the proposed dams with local Patagonians. Each time we speak with community members, Dam Analyst Squad obtains a better idea of the intricate nature of the socio-political and economic aspects of the project. When we first arrived in Patagonia, Dam Analyst Squad was outside looking in on a region and its highly controversial project. Although we are still outsiders per se, we feel now as if we are part of the community, truly participating in the dam debate, pushing ourselves to positively contribute to the cause.

Today we travelled from Chacabuco to Cochrane. Once in Cochrane, we spent the day meeting stakeholders in the proposed dam project.

The most educational meeting of the day was with Cesar Meneba and Carlos Fuentes, the sub-governor and governor´s advisor, respectively, in Cochrane. During this meeting we had the opportunity to ask about the local goverenment´s perception of the proposed dams. Meneba and Fuentes presented very interesting perspectives that helped point to issues that the dams might cause in Cochrane. In sum, the men predict that a complex web of technological, social, economic and environmental issues will occur throughout the construction, initiation and operation of the dams. They are dually wary and supportive of the proposed project. New jobs, ¨floating populations,¨ community development, technological advances and increased tourism, are just a few of the many pros and cons that the local government predicts for Cochrane.

We spend tonight sleeping at Camping Hospedaje — a camping spot located in a Chilean´s dusty backyard. Full of crab apple trees, kittens and mutts, and a whole slew of noises, this plot of dirt serves as our home for the night.

Bolstered by a delicious dinner of fire-roasted lamb the previous night, Dam Analyst Squad and Co. was ready to begin its first day at Estancia Valle Chacabuco (literally, Valley Chacabuco Ranch).

This morning we spoke with two managers of Conservación Patagonica, an organization established by Kris Tompkins, former CEO of Patagonia Inc., that aims to develop all 180,000 acres of the Estancia into a national park. Prior to its purchase in 2004, the Estancia was a sheep and cattle grazing area for more than a century. Volunteers at the Estancia are currently working to undo the effects of overgrazing these herds by removing wire fences, unearthing non-native plants, and replanting native species. These projects aim to restore natural flora in order to encourage guanaco, puma and huemul (Chilean deer) to return to the area. After Conservación deems restoration complete, the Estancia will be donated to the Chilean government.

After the meeting and a hefty lunch of carne y arroz, we headed down the dusty road for a spectacular hike to Lago Gutierrez. The long and difficult hike proved well worthwhile as we were surrounded by breathtaking panoramic views of the Chacabuco River Valley. At the end of the trail our efforts were rewarded by a swim in a pristine, albeit frigid, glacial lake.

Dam Analyst Squad and Co. left Santiago this morning and arrived at Balmaceda in the Aysen Region at noon. Upon our arrival, we were warmly greeted by Patagonia Adventure Expeditions (PAEX) and then began our expedition into Patagonia in a 12-person van driven by, we were assured, the best driver South of Santiago.

Traveling along Routa 7, more commonly known as the Carretera Austral, we made our way from Balmaceda to Puerto Bertrand, passing through Puerto Murta and traversing along Lago General Carrera. Despite having little sleep (only four hours last night) and an unexpected flat tire, our spirits were soaring as we traveled along the dusty, bumpy road amongst some of the most amazing scenery we have ever seen. During our voyage to Puerto Bertrand, we had the pleasure of stopping at Valle Ibañez to dip our toes into the waters of the wide, shallow, braided Ibañez River. Given the heavy glacial melt in the area, the river water is saturated with sediment and gives off the most stunning turquoise hue.

Elisabetta and Flavia taking in the views at Rio Ibanez.

Tonight we reside at PAEX headquarters, owned and operated by expat Jonathan Leidich, only some 20 meters from the shore of Lago Bertrand, the source lake to the Rio Baker. As I type, spaghetti boils on the stove, homemade bread bakes in the oven, and we relax sipping on Chile's national drink, the Pisco Sour. After (much needed) rest tonight, we travel to Estancia Valle Chacabuco tomorrow.

Relaxing at Jonathan's (owner of Patagonia Adventure Expeditions) beautiful estate.

Our first full day in Santiago begins! Dam Analyst Squad, operating with geohydrologist Peter Willing, writer Scott Douglas, and biogeocemist Wendy Pabich, spent the day in various academic meetings.

First, we spoke with employees of CONAMA, Chile’s rough equivalent to the US’s EPA, to learn about the fundamentals of Chile’s environmental regulation. Second, we spoke with the Director of Studies in Chile’s Department of Energy to discuss Chile’s general approach to energy in the nation and the federal stance on non-conventional energy sources. Last, we spent time discussing our theses and various data needs with directors from International Rivers, a not-for-profit aimed at the protection of rivers and the defense of the rights of people who depend on them.

After nearly 12 hours of meetings, the team was in high spirits on account of the success and openness of the day’s conversations. Making these contacts was particularly important to facilitate access to data required for each of our theses. The meetings served as perfect foundation for our in-house understanding of the issues surrounding the Rio Baker dams and were a great way to start our trip.